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Trango Cinch	Auto-Locking - Cinch, Trango vs GriGri, Petzl Auto-Locking Feature:  Auto-Locking belay devices are designed to catch a fall without any action from the belayer (but they must be backed up).  When the climber's side of the rope is weighted, a cam pinches the rope in the auto-locking belay devices.  The belayer can deactivate the cam by pulling back on the handle (i.e. when lowering the belayer).  Auto-Locking belay devices must be backed up by belaying as if you were using a non-auto-locking belay device (i.e. ATC). Common Uses:  Auto-Locking belay devices are very popular at sport crags.  Holding a climber who is hang dogging takes little effort with an auto-locking device.  Auto-Locking belay devices are also becoming popular for use on big wall belaying, hauling, ascending and occasionally descending techniques. Auto-Locking belay devices make good ascenders in the case of an emergency. Safer?:  Many climbers buy an auto-locking belay device because they believe it is safer.  A bad belayer will eventually make a critical mistake regardless of the device you have.  Always use a good, experienced belayer and do not rely on the auto-locking features.  Auto-locking belay devices are not guaranteed to work either and must be backed up. On the bright side, auto-locking belay devices have a chance of catching you if your belayer fails to (i.e. if your belayer is unconscious due to rock fall).  Disadvantages:  These guys are heavy.  Even the Cinch weighs more than three ATCs (the GriGri, more than four).  Due to the techniques required to feed slack, many climbers prefer to use an alternative belay devices for belaying a leader.  Auto-Locking belay devices are also expensive, ranging from 70-80 dollars. Rappelling on double ropes (the most common way to rappel) is not possible with either the GriGri or Cinch because they only have one slot. The placement of the rope in the device is critical.  There is a climbers side and a belayer side.  This is marked clearly on both the Cinch and the GriGri.  If you place the rope into your belay device incorrectly, it will not jam automatically if the climber falls. Products:  The Petzl GriGri has been the main tool for climbers looking for an auto-locking, easy release belay device for the last ten years.  Finally, we have a competitive product to the GriGri, the Trango Cinch. Cinch compared to the GriGri: Good: - 32% lighter, 170 grams versus 225 - Can be used from 9.4mm to 11 mm (GriGri 9.7 to 11 mm) - 69.95 USD (Cinch) versus 79.95 USD (GriGri) - Smaller profile. Bad: - Smaller handle.  The Cinch's handle is much smaller than the GriGri making it a little more awkward to use (regulating pressure while rappelling takes practice).	Petzl GriGri
Petzl Reverso	Auto-Braking - Reverso, Petzl vs Black Diamond ATC Guide Auto-Braking Feature:  Similar to Auto-Locking belay devices, auto-braking belay devices are designed to catch a fall without any action by the belayer (though they must be backed up). Auto-Braking vs Auto-Locking:  Good: Different than auto-locking, the auto-braking feature is optional.  The belay devices can be used as a regular non-locking belay device.  When the auto-braking feature is activated, slack cannot be easily paid out.  Due to slack limitations, the auto-braking feature is normally only used while belaying the second (the climber that follows the leader).  The auto-braking featured is disabled while belaying the leader and rappelling. Auto-Braking belay devices are considerably lighter than auto-locking belay devices. Bad: After the auto-braking feature is engaged it is more difficult to release than with an auto-locking belay device (there is no handle).  Technical techniques are required (described in both device manuals) to disengage the belay device.  This is critical if your second needs to be lowered (i.e. they cannot complete the climb or they are injured). Common Uses:  Auto-Braking belay devices are ideal for multipitch climbing.  The leader can belay the second with ease.  You can rappel with the same belay device.  They can also be used as an emergency ascender (i.e. if your rope is jammed). Disadvantages:  Auto-Braking belay devices are more technical to use.  If you do not fully understand the device how the device works and how to disengage the features you could have a serious problem.  Auto-Braking devices weigh slightly more than a regular belay device (tube style). Products:  The Petzl Reverso has been the staple for the auto-braking feature.  In 2006, Black Diamond released the ATC Guide, an auto-braking belay device.  Petzl has also released a smaller version of the Reverso Reversino designed for 7.5mm to 8.2mm ropes. ATC Guide vs Reverso: Good: - Dual friction modes. - Simplified auto-braking disengaging feature. Bad: - 20% heavier (ATC Guide 103 grams, Reverso 81 grams).	Black Diamond ATC Guide
Black Diamond ATC	Tube Style Belay Devices - Black Diamond ATC versus Trango Jaws Dual Friction mode:  There are many belay the devices on the market including the Trango, Jaws that have two different friction modes.  one side is used as a low friction side for belaying and low angle rappelling.  The other side is the high friction side (side closest to you in the Jaws picture) and can be used for steep rappels or to catch big falls.  You cannot change the friction mode you are on with removing the rope from the belay device. Single Friction Advantages:  Many climbers prefer the simplicity of the single friction mode.  Single friction mode belay devices are the lightest and cheapest belay devices.  Common Uses:  All around belay device.  Easy to use for belaying and rappelling. Disadvantages:  The classic tube style belay device cannot be used as an emergency ascender.  They also have no automatic braking features. Products:  Single friction belay devices include ATC from Black Diamond, Bug from DMM, Pyramid from Trango and many more.  Dual friction belay devices include ATC XP from Black Diamond, Jaws from Trango and many more. ATC vs Jaws Cost - ATC: 18.95, Jaws:19.95 Friction - ATC: single, Jaws: Dual Weight - ATC: 50, Jaws: 68 grams